By Ghazali Ibrahim
For decades, hair extensions have been more than a beauty choice for Black women. They have been cultural expression, convenience and, often, a form of protection for natural hair. But new research is prompting difficult questions about whether the very products widely embraced by Black women could be exposing them to hidden health risks.
According to CNN report, recent studies have detected potentially hazardous chemicals, including carcinogens and heavy metals, in popular brands of synthetic and human hair extensions commonly used for box braids, twists, faux locs and other protective styles.
A Consumer Reports study published this week found lead in 29 brands of braiding hair. Earlier in February, a peer-reviewed study published in the American Chemical Society journal Environment & Health identified dozens of chemicals including flame retardants, pesticides and organotins across 43 samples of hair extensions.
Some of the detected chemicals have been linked to cancer, reproductive harm and birth defects. More than 80 percent of the samples tested contained chemicals associated with breast cancer, according to researchers.
While scientists say there is still no conclusive evidence that the extensions directly cause illness, the findings have reignited conversations about product safety in an industry largely fueled by Black women.
Hair extensions are a staple in many Black communities, worn year-round for style, convenience or to shield natural curls from environmental damage. Beauty supply stores are lined with bundles in varying textures and shades which are 1B, 27, 30, 613, catering to a thriving market.
Yet despite the industry’s size, regulation remains minimal.
Elissia Franklin, a research scientist at the Silent Spring Institute and lead author of the February study, said the concern goes beyond individual consumers to include braiders who handle the products daily.
“Black women use more hair products and often wear styles that require prolonged contact,” Franklin noted in the study’s commentary.
“Those chemicals shouldn’t be in the products.”
Franklin’s research revealed that nearly all samples tested contained at least one hazardous chemical. Some substances found in the hair would require warning labels under California’s Proposition 65 consumer protection law.
Although awareness is growing online, many braiders and salon owners say business continues as usual.
Some braiders report hearing about chemical concerns through social media but say clients rarely raise the issue. Others pre-wash extensions in hot water or soak them in apple cider vinegar.
Researchers warn that braiders may face the highest exposure risk because of repeated, long-term contact with the materials.
“They are the most vulnerable population,” Franklin said, pointing to the cumulative effects of handling treated synthetic fibers over years or decades.
The findings come amid broader scrutiny of Black hair care products. In recent years, studies have linked some chemical hair relaxers and straighteners to formaldehyde exposure and increased cancer risks, leading to declining use.
For many Black women, the shifting landscape has created frustration and uncertainty.
“What Black hair product is safe?” Franklin asked, echoing a sentiment increasingly voiced in online forums and community discussions.
Despite mounting concerns, many women continue to opt for extensions, weighing convenience, cost and cultural significance against potential health risks. Protective styles can cost upwards of $200 and take hours to install, making them both a financial and time investment.
Experts say responsibility should not fall solely on consumers or braiders to decipher chemical safety.
Advocates are calling for stronger oversight, clearer labeling and greater transparency from manufacturers in the hair extension industry.
As the science evolves, so too does a pressing question within the community: how to maintain cultural beauty traditions without compromising long-term health.
